For its new collection of fine jewelry, “The Beautys of the World”, the Cartier House in Madrid collected 97 new exceptional pieces of jewelry that formed a flamboyant cabinet of curiosities. Shapes and colors are intertwined, inspired by the wonders of nature – from the most spectacular animals to the most distant galaxies – and culture. By inviting all civilizations into its creations (from Europe to Asia via South America), the famous French jewels celebrate a universalist art nurtured by curiosity for the Other and the celebration of diversity. “Beauties of the World” also impresses with its artistic power, as the workshops seem to have found a playground that promotes ingenuity there (the rings are particularly remarkable). This creative pleasure – generous – shines through a soft and happy expressionism.
REEF NECKLACE Platinum, emeralds, coral,
“Beauties of the World”, Cartier’s new collection, therefore presents itself as a fabulous curiosity combining scientific research, learning, nature and cultures – a place that brings together objects of different origins and without any apparent relation to the pure pleasure of pleasure. These objects here take the form of necklaces, rings, earrings and brooches inspired by the beauty of an animal – sometimes imaginary -, a plant, a galaxy, a landscape or a textile. Cartier seems to intend to make sensitive this moment, when the eye – and the spirit – are suddenly amazed at an element of the world, by the smallest detail (the beauty of a Japanese kimono knot with the decoration “nishin”) To Nature’s largest company. The house observes everything, with kindness and dialogues with cultures. Each piece thus forms a snapshot of a view of the world, unique and subjective as an artist. An invitation to augment the realities of new territories, which are far from content to settle the existing world, imposes itself as an exploration of hybridity and imagination.
NOUCHALI NECKLACE. White gold, rubellite, chalcedony,
black lacquer, diamonds.
A coral river winds around its neck, surrounded by sublime alluvium which are nothing but emeralds, amethysts and diamonds. This is the necklaceRev”, Characterized by Cartier’s emblematic chromatic contrast between the coral’s orange and the emerald’s green. The movement of water and life is back in the spotlight with “Poroca and its impressive sapphire, whose original shape inspired the designer to create a wave of small sapphires and diamonds that resound like dazzling waves from the central stone. From this aquatic world a sunfish emerges whose scales, stylized by the jeweler, come to life with the necklace “Totara”With extraordinary flexibility. The miracle of the birth of a water lily is captured by the necklace “Nouchali”And its aerial architecture that evokes the rosette of a stained glass window just as much. The floating flower, placed on a necklace of chalcedony balls, has a rubellite center around which crystallizes petals of diamonds surrounded by onyx. An explosion of geometric shapes, emblematic of Cartier fine jewelry, sublimates the bloom of the aquatic flower, further enhanced by the use of setting. trembling which causes the petals to vibrate at the slightest movement.
IWANA NECKLACE. Platinum, emeralds,
The animal world inspires, as usual, Cartier masterpieces. “Iwana” necklace”, a dazzling abstraction of an iguana, was created from a unique group of emeralds from Colombia. Because the creation of the French house is always initiated from stone, like the necklace “TepozEvokes Native American arrows, which owe all their share of rubies with their special rounded shapes. Or the ringmahavaiImagined from a rare green diamond (bluish hue) that reacts wonderfully to a blue diamond in an ultra-modern you and me. “Beautés du Monde” is unique in many respects, not least the presence of two green diamonds in the collection!
RITUAL NECKLACE. White gold, rubies, chalcedony,
A gentle collection, as evidenced by the “Ritual” necklace, a tribute to traditional Mesoamerican finesse available in a delicate pink and blue, tenderly surrounded by intense black contours of onyx. A double azure row of chalcedony balls embraces a constellation of rubies and diamonds hung from an invisible setting. For this presentation in Madrid, Cartier revealed to his guests the iconic masterpiece and a dazzling symbol of the flexibility, agility and opulence of the pieces of the house: the famous necklace “Snake”Created in 1968 for the actress Maria Félix. The extravagant Mexican then ordered this unique work of art, in the form of a 57 cm snake, equipped with a fully articulated structure and paved with 2473 diamonds. The piece, like another skin, curls around the neck and waves on the surface of the skin with as much suppleness as the animal. necklace”Niscence”Testifies in a contemporary way to this know-how with its lace of diamonds whose metal structure is invisible. It is that the eye is undoubtedly dazzled by the central diamond of 15 carat DIF, that is, by extreme purity and beauty. In another tradition, which is dear to Cartier, the piece can be transformed: the central diamond of the necklace can be worn as a ring, and part of the necklace is transformed into a tiara, so that its sides can be transformed into bracelets … Flexible such as. the flutter of a wing, necklace “Apatura”Suggests a butterfly wing with its use of sparkling colors, where Cartier confirms his rank as a great colorist. This piece can also be transformed, the other part can be worn as a brooch.
APATURA NECKLACE. Platinum, opals, colored sapphires,
From this journey into the world of the infinitely small and the infinitely large, we will especially remember three destinations. Rings are one of them with their unique ingenuity and beauty. On their own, they form Cartier’s ideal cabinet of curiosities. It is truly a dragon’s eye that inspires the sublime “Mizuchi”, Which is distinguished by its magnificent tourmaline and its precise and so delicate work of onyx – for the first time the work in such fine and complex black net shapes. der “Tilasm“forms a cosmos of rotating galaxies that mix diamonds and sapphires while”Viridia”Enlarges with its architectural forms its 1.25 carat green diamond (the second in the collection). The incredible reinterpretation of the uncellered coat of the Cartier panther on the necklace “Panther Erindi”Forms another destination that cannot be missed. The rock crystal necklace has been gently hollowed out to insert the onyx, which forms the spots of the panther. A true lapidary enterprise. Repolished, the material appears to have been born that way. We will finally not forget the amazing “JellizManages to summon the art deco references specific to the house with technological or even cyberpunk influences, as daring as they are successful, rude as they are exceptional, just like the collection.
TILASM RING. Platinum, colored sapphires,
VIRIDIIA RING. Platinum, green diamond,
The famous “Serpent” necklace by Maria Félix, made in 1968 by Cartier and exhibited in Madrid in June 2022.