How the enclosed fashion business flourished

The industry has been able to identify and take advantage of the new rituals, needs, and fragmented codes associated with our defined communities by launching trends and customized products. Which now forms a sector in itself: “lockdown mode”, mode under confinement.

Virginia Woolf saw in clothing more than items “has the function of keeping us warm”. “They change our view of the world and the world’s view of us” entered Orlando, in 1928, the one that emphasized the power of the festival and the class relations maintained at each performance in clothing.

It is still necessary to have access to the company and its people. Without the ability to perform, without paying attention to appearance, appearance loses its theatrical, narcissistic dimension and its power of non-verbal communication. According to The Business of Fashion, at the beginning of the pandemic in the United States, the US fashion industry suffered a 90% drop in clothing sales, all sectors combined.

Which did not break the neoliberal glow in the clothing market, on the contrary. A fine sociologist, this environment is interested in new rituals, in relation to space and to itself, to promote a metamorphosed relationship to dress. Marketing of new desires, special trend creations behind closed doors, products adapted to unprecedented needs: these developments have grown to such an extent that today they constitute an entire sector dedicated to “lockdown mode”, mode during confinement.

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Endless collections, in luxury and fast way

The first point that was exploited was the observation of a diverse relationship with our inner self – a sphere that is at the same time intimate, professional, public during video conferencing. From this was born a so-called mirror trend of “hybridization”, with clothes without fixed codification, both suitable for an afternoon tossed in front of series, but elegant enough to be able to receive an unexpected Facetime call from your boss. allows to collect likes and followers on Instagram.

Today, the goose that lays the golden eggs in this sector is working remotely with its new but already codified forms of collaboration. This so-called “WFH” or “Work From Home” branch is the subject of endless collections, both in luxury and fast fashion. All are placed in response to the fashion press’ problem around the “Zoom label” and the social conventions evoked by these groupings of inserted cameras.

This includes stylish waist-length outfits before turning, offscreen, into pajamas. Today, the offer is completed by the so-called “face fashion” trend, which encourages women to invest in make-up and bubbly accessories. The stated goal? Makes her face a zone of stylistic expression and maximizes her communication potential – thus filling in the absence of any other bodily expression, kept out of frame.

This “comfort economy” also promotes well-being and a celebration of activities presented as simple, such as cooking or gardening. While carefully avoiding activating an imaginary of retrograde homeliness. Thus, Fiskars-labeled aprons are promoted as gender neutral and promise to decouple domestic duties from an assigned gender. A somewhat dubious mercantile avalanche in the midst of a global pandemic.

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